General FAQ's

Q. If I want to install an electric fence how should I go about finding a contractor that is reliable, reputable and a good operator? I am concerned that the installation crew will give information about my property to criminals.
A. A difficult question. Look at adverts in home improvement magazines etc. Concentrate on companies that have physical addresses versus post boxes and landlines versus cell phone numbers. A company that specializes in electric fencing only, is far preferable to one that “does a bit of everything”. It is critical that the company should have their own installation teams. Many sub-contractors pick up casual labour on the morning of an installation!
Q. Is there a governing body that regulates Electric Fence installers.
A. Unfortunately not. Government is busy finalising legislation that will govern electric fence installers.
Q. Is it safe?
A. Yes. A properly installed electric fence in accordance with current Government Legislation is absolutely safe.

The high voltage current is non-lethal because the electrical current is not continuous; it consists of pulses. Touching it, will result in a very unpleasant experience.

The pulses are generated by a unit called an energiser that supplies a high voltage at very low amperage in short surges of power; usually around 3 milliseconds in duration. It is this millisecond pulse rate that provides the safety factor in low impedance energizers. The extremely short pulse rate prevents an electric fence from being easily shorted out and electrocuting a person or animal.
Q. What happens if there is an attempted security breach?
A. All Gido fences come with an alarm system. Depending on the security grading of the electric fence, the alarm system is triggered from basic breaching such as: shorting of the wires, cutting of the live wire, cutting of the earth wire right up to alarm activation with any wire being touched. This is subject to make and model of the energiser and wiring circuit of the fence i.e. parallel or series. All new residential fences are wired in series with earth wire monitoring. This is the highest security grading of any electric fence. The siren will activate in the event of any live or earth wire being cut.
Q. Can it be linked to my armed response company?
A. Yes, provided your alarm system radio transmitter can accommodate the additional signal. Note, the system is wired into your alarm radio transmitter and NOT to your alarm control panel. Gido links your energiser to the radio transmitter remotely. This prevents the possibility of lightning damage to your radio transmitter and alarm system. Gido does this in conjunction with your armed response company, as they need to zone the fence on their control panel in their control room.
Q. What are the Running Costs?
A. You can expect an average increase of ± R10.00 in your monthly electricity bill.
Q. What is the standard guarantee period on a domestic installation?
A. Very difficult question to answer, as there are so many variables. However, any reputable company worth its salt should be able to offer a minimum of 3 years on workmanship. Gido’s is 5 years. Irrespective of the guarantee period, it is still a good idea to service your fence regularly.

Q. How can I determine whether a company can honour its guarantee periods?
A. Tricky question. Common sense should prevail considering the following factors:

The average lifespan of new electric fence installers on the block is currently less than 3 months. Their price calculations are incorrect, resulting in absurdly cheap prices that cannot sustain any business. Although their intentions might be good, no money equates to no business.
Guarantees from companies utilising sub-contractors are not worth the paper they are written on, simply because there is no financial incentive for the sub-contractor to honour any guarantee.
Utilising one of the “bakkie brigade” installers, well, installation quality and after-sales service cannot be big on your agenda.
For the homeowner that is serious about quality and service: Do your homework. There are good reasons that why some companies do millions of turnover per annum and others barely survive.
Concentrate on companies that have their own dedicated repair and maintenance departments.
Use plain old fashion common sense, if it is too good to be true, it usually is!

Q. What are the maintenance implications?
A. Vegetation is the single biggest cause of false alarms. Cut back and trim regularly!
Q. Will touching my driveway gate result in a shock?
A. It shouldn’t. If your fence is installed correctly, there is NO risk of being shocked.
Q. Will it kill my cat or dog?
A. No. Cats are perceptive to the electromagnetic field caused by induction and as a rule avoid it. Dogs will touch the fence once and then leave it alone.
Q. How do I know which sort of energiser to choose? Are some better and more reliable than others, and have better guarantees?
A. Yes, some energisers are better than others and have more features. Guarantees also vary. The sales consultant should be able to advise you on the most appropriate energiser for your specific needs. It is most definitely not one size fits all.
Q. What sort of energiser will I need if I live on about a 500m², 1000m² or 2000m² stand?
A. The energiser size is dependant on the type of fencing cabling being used, size and layout of the property, and plant growth. All energiser outputs are governed by legislation not to exceed 9900 Volts. The difference is in the Joule rating, one of Newton’s laws, which quite simply put, is the calculation used to determine how far you can push a predetermined load over a predetermined resistance.
E.g. A 4 Joule machine can “push” 9900 volt 12km over 1.6mm aluminium wire, 4km along 1.2mm galvanised braided cable and 700m over 1.2mm stainless steel cable.
Q. I have been told that I should get a “powerful” energiser. What exactly is a “powerful” energiser?
A. Sales gimmicks that is all it is. A 4 Joule energiser can energise 99% of all domestic installations. Yes, some energisers are better than others and have more features. Guarantees also vary. The sales consultant should be able to advise you on the most appropriate energiser for your specific needs. Again, it is most definitely not one size fits all.
Q. What about lightning strikes? Is there anything I can do about this?
A. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do about lightning. Some people switch off their energisers and or unplug them. It won’t help you. The reason being, the electric fence wires run straight into the energiser. In this case you are at the mercy of nature. Installing a lightning diverter kit can help, depending on the distance of the strike from your system. If the strike is close by, nothing will help. As a rule, lightning damage is covered by your building insurance.
Q. What happens when it is my turn for “load shedding” i.e. power cuts?
A. All energisers supplied by Gido have an internal back-up battery.
Q. How many earth spikes do I need, how far apart should they be spaced and how deep should they be placed?
A. It is noteworthy that some companies indicate the exact number of earth spikes to be used for an installation on their quotations. Their sales consultants are clearly psychic. The number of earth spikes required cannot be guessed!

The “first” earthing spike should be placed as close as possible to the energiser. The placing of additional earthing spikes is determined by the earth voltage measurement, which ideally should not exceed 500 Volts. This can only be measured with high voltage measuring equipment. Remember, additional earthing spikes increase shock intensity.

The above requirements are crucial for the effective functioning of the system. (See How important is good earthing? notes under Technical.)

Pending legislation prescribes a minimum of three earthing spikes per domestic installation. This is quite simply because unscrupulous installers, i.e. “cheap quotes”, in a bid to save money, do not install sufficient earthing spikes for the system to operate effectively. These home owners are under the illusion that they are now secured. NOT SO. It is a statistical fact that 50% of all electric fences in Gauteng cannot shock you, quite simply because they are not properly earthed.

Hence new legislation. It is there to protect you, the consumer.
Q. Can I install electric fencing on top of any type of boundary or does it have to be a wall? Can it be above a hedge, or railings, or a wooden fence?
A. Electric fencing can be installed on just about any type of boundary and or perimeter fencing.
Q. I have seen electric fencing that is vertical, horizontal and slanted. Why this and what is the best angle bracket for electric fencing.
A. It is important to note that one size most definitely does not fit all! The design and type of wall will determine the type of bracket. There are different brackets for different applications. It is vital that the correct bracket be used for the relevant application.
Q. What is the difference between round bar and square tubing brackets?
A. Round bar is the cheapest bracket on the market. Two of the major draw-backs of round bar are; Criminals can slide the insulators apart to create an opening in order to get through and the design of the insulators does not allow for stepping up and down. Square tubing brackets are far sturdier than round bar and are suitable for stepping up and down. See photos under “Good Fencing / Bad Fencing”.

The sales consultant should be able to advise you on the most appropriate bracket for your type of boundary wall.
Q. Most fencing seems to be black or white. Is there any other colour i.e. green? I've been told black lasts longer and is better than white. Is this true, and if so why?
A. As a rule fence brackets are manufactured mainly in black or white. The reason Gido advocates the use of black brackets is that white brackets will develop a black circle around the live insulators due to the bracket being charged electro statically. That is the build-up of static electricity which attracts dust particles.

Q. I believe there are different types of wire? What are the differences and which is best?
A. The most common type of wire is galvanised braided cable. It is effective for most properties and a fairly good conductor of electricity.

The following chart is a guideline to conductor resistance. The lower the resistance of the conductor, the better the electricity flow.

NB. Please note that this chart is based on a 4 Joule energiser and gives the recommended live wire distance for a security fence wired in series. (Longer distances can be achieved in parallel).

Type of wire	Diameter	Resistance (Ω/Km)	Recommended live wire length
Stainless steel	1.2 mm	770	700 Metres
Braided cable	1.2 mm	330	3 Km
Aluminium wire	1.6 mm	31	8 Km

Many installers advocate the use of stainless steel wire purely because they don’t know any better. Stainless steel is NOT a good conductor of electricity. There is a massive misconception with the general public that stainless steel wire is the best wire for electrified fencing, purely because it doesn’t rust. The fact of the matter is that nowhere in the world is stainless steel used as a conductor of electricity in any guise or form whatsoever, quite simply because pure stainless steel is NOT a conductor. Thus, the stainless steel being offered to the public by the so called electric fence fraternity is an alloy, which defeats the object. It can only be used effectively on very small installations, and in the end will, and does, rust.

If a client wants a premium installation the best conductor to use would be aluminium wire. Besides being extremely rust resistant, is it also the ONLY super conductor on the market. As a matter of interest, all Eskom’s overhead high voltage cables are aluminum.

Fencing conductors of different resistance (ohms) should NEVER be used on the same fence, as it affects the performance and effectivity of the energiser.

Q. I notice people have different numbers of wires. Why is this, and how many does the average person need?
A. In the past the norm was 4 or 5 wires. This was when electric fencing was still relatively unknown. Unfortunately with our current crime situation the need is for effective security, not just a token fence. The majority of the fences currently being installed are 10 + strands. If you are going to install any security measure, do it right the first time.
Q. What should the distance between brackets be? Does the distance between these brackets make any difference?
A. Brackets should ideally not be spaced more than 3 m apart. Because of the tensile elasticity of most metals, the further brackets are spaced apart, the easier it is to separate the wires. The distances between brackets are critical for the effectiveness of the electric fence. See photos under “Good Fencing / Bad Fencing”.
Q. I've heard the fence is better if one long continuous piece of wire is used to make the fence instead of joining wires. Is this true and why.
A. It is not practical to run one continuous strand of wire. What is, however, critical in domestic applications is the fact that all joints should be ferruled and or line clamped to ensure effective conductivity.
Q. Are all the wires live? Is it possible to touch one or two wires and not get any shock at all?
A. Not all wires on an electric fence are live. There are earth wires in between the live wires to facilitate an alarm if a perpetrator attempts to lift wires i.e. live shorting against earth. You need earth wires to ensure the shock capability of the system. The better the fence is earthed, the greater the shock. If the fence is not earthed, you cannot be shocked.
Q. Is it possible to step over an electric fence?
A. Yes, if the fence height is low enough and there is a stepping area on the other side of the fence. Besides having the ability to shock, an electric fence should also be a physical barrier and be designed in such a manner that it provides maximum height thereby eliminating stepping areas on the inside.
Q. Stories abound about criminals placing blankets over the fence and then climbing over. Is this true?
A. Absolute rubbish! No blanket can insulate you from an electrical shock. Also, with a correctly installed fence the wires will short out, activating the siren.
Q. Is it possible to cut the fence wires?
A. Absolutely. This is why it is critical to wire your electric fence in series, Live and Earth. Of course it is critical to install an energiser with earth monitoring capabilities. This is a phenomenal feature that, when correctly installed and wired, will activate the siren when any single strand of conductor on the fence gets cut. However, the number of installers out there that can wire the live and earth wires of any electric fence in series is nil. Gido Electric Fencing has never ever interviewed any installer that has been able to wire a fence correctly during aptitude testing. This includes prospects from major companies.

Again the importance of using a reputable company with fully trained staff.
Q. I know legislation prevents a charge that will kill someone. But what are the limits and how will it affect someone?
A. All energiser outputs are governed by legislation not to exceed 9900 Volts. A 9900 Volt shock is nasty, very nasty. However, the shock capability of the energizer is determined by its earthing. The “first” earthing spike should be placed as close as possible to the energiser. The placing of additional earthing spikes is determined by the earth voltage measurement, which ideally should not exceed 500 Volts. This can only be measured with high voltage measuring equipment. The above requirements are crucial for the effective functioning of the system.
Q. How long will it / should it take to install a fence around the average 1000m², 2000m² and perhaps 3000m² property?
A. One day.
Q. Is installing electric fencing something I can do as a DIY project?
A. At Gido we have never come across a decent DIY installation, but it is not impossible. However, in terms of pending legislation regarding electrified fencing all current and new do-it-yourself electric fence installations will be outlawed.
Q. Are there any legalities?
A. Yes. All existing electric fence installations have to comply with legislation as per Government Gazette No: 23648 dated 26 July 2002.

Current Electric Fencing legislation covers the following topics:
a) Typical fence construction e.g. criteria for the placement and positioning of brackets;
b) Energisers, specification, type and application;
c) Warning signs, specification, type and application.

New / revised legislation regarding Electrified Fencing:
a) All do-it-yourself electric fence installations will be outlawed;
b) Only registered electric fence installers will be allowed to do installations;
c) Minimum requirements, e.g. minimum 3 earthing spikes;*
d) Some sort of compliance certificate for fences with all new and existing fences evaluated. Copies of the proposed “compliance certificate” has already been circulated to select companies for feedback;
e) If your fence does not meet the proposed criteria, it will either have to be upgraded to compliance, or you will be forced to remove it.

* It is a statistical fact that 50% of all electric fences in Gauteng cannot shock you because they are not properly earthed. This is quite simply due to cheap, substandard installations, hence new legislation. It is there to protect you, the consumer.

Gido Electric Fencing

General FAQ's